Industry News | 6/20/24
Updated: Jul 15
A Brief History of Juneteenth Fashion
In observance of Juneteenth, Behind the Seams is being issued one day late this week. To honor Juneteenth, we'd like to share an article that details the history of the holiday and the fashion behind it.
A constant among all Juneteenth celebrations, whether big or small, urban or rural, was the attire. Afro-Texans and their descendants not only celebrated with song, dance, food, but also through fashion. Prior to Juneteenth, clothing was dictated by the slave codes and social norms of the time. Post enslavement, dress was a way to recontextualize and reconstruct their image and their identity. No longer were they the enslaved, but an Afro-Texan, an African-American.
Alex Zucchi Selected as New President of CEMATEX
Apparel Resources | June 19, 2024
Alex Zucchi has been selected as the new president of CEMATEX, the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers, following his election at the General Assembly on June 14, 2024. In his first statement as president, Zucchi shared: “It is a great honor to accept this role, and I am thankful to the Assembly for their assurance in me. I also want to recognise the achievements of the previous president Ernesto Maurer in reinforcing CEMATEX’s global presence throughout his tenure.”
Freedom of Association Is a Human Right. Why Are Garment Workers Still Denied It?
Vogue Business | June 19, 2024
A new report from the Business & Human Rights Resource Centre reveals a concerning trend of suppliers undermining trade unions and blocking meaningful dialogue with workers. The report, titled “Just For Show,” explores how freedom of association is being undermined in six key garment-producing countries: Bangladesh, Cambodia, India, Indonesia, Pakistan, and Sri Lanka. It paints a bleak picture of the trade union landscape in these countries, through interviews with trade union leaders, activists, and labor rights advocates, as well as a survey of labor rights NGOs, factory-level trade unions, national trade union federations and worker organizations. The report is intended as a rallying cry for brands and their investors to step up and support workers’ freedom of association.
Another report from the International Trade Union Confederation (ITUC) issued earlier this month, named the ITUC Global Rights Index, documented violations of internationally recognized collective labor rights by worldwide governments and employers. You can check out that list here.
Bankruptcy Possible For Delta Apparel
Sourcing Journal | June 18, 2024
The activewear and lifestyle apparel firm said it is committed to a plan that would suspend its manufacturing operations in Honduras due to ongoing liquidity challenges, according to a regulatory filing with the Securities and Exchange Commission. The plan follows the “wind-down of the company’s manufacturing operations in Mexico earlier this year,” as well as a decision to no longer emphasize Delta Activewear’s Global Brands channel. Delta also said it is still trying to find a buyer for its El Salvador manufacturing operations, which services the Global Brands channel.
China’s Manufacturing ‘Overcapacity’ Could Imperil Domestic Industry, AAM Warns
Sourcing Journal | June 18, 2024
According to a report from the Alliance for American Manufacturing, “Overcapacity is a feature, not a bug, of China’s model of state capitalism.” Amid a national real estate crisis and the softening of its export dominance, the country is pushing hard on state-led manufacturing to drive growth. China saw exports decline by 4.6% last year — the first contraction in dollar terms in seven years — with the U.S. leading the pack in the pull-back in sourcing. American imports from China dropped 13% in 2023 to $500.3 billion, the steepest decline in 30 years.
Ikea Launches Textile Collection for Home and Fashion
Fashion Dive | June 18, 2024
Ikea has introduced a new 20-piece collection of textiles designed to be used by customers to create either clothing or home decor. The fabric will launch across all 51 U.S. Ikea stores in July with a second drop slated for the second half of 2024. The collection is also offered at Ikea stores worldwide and through the company’s ecommerce platform.
How Designing for Next Use Creates a Circular Economy
Sourcing Journal | June 18, 2024
During the WWD Global Fashion Summit in Riyadh, William McDonough, CEO of McDonough Innovation, presented on sustainability, emphasizing an urgent need to rethink the industry’s approach to design and consumption. Interesting (and kind of scary) fact from McDonough’s presentation: global human-made mass now exceeds all living biomass.
During his presentation, McDonough challenged the audience to recognize that nature provides sources, not resources and it is people’s responsibility to transform these sources into sustainable solutions.
Shein Leverages NTX AI Tech To Accelerate Fast Fashion Production
Just Style | June 18, 2024
Textile innovation and solutions company NTX Group has partnered with Shein to bring artificial intelligence to fast fashion production and fulfillment. The partnership would allow Shein to leverage NTX's AI technology for design insights, creative output, product drawings, and streamlined manufacturing processes. NTX could enable Shein to launch new fashion products in just seven days with delivery fulfillments only five days after that.
Gap, H&M, BESTSELLER, Mango: Uniting for Sustainable Fashion
Sustainability Magazine | June 17, 2024
Global fashion brands Gap, H&M, BESTSELLER, and Mango are taking part in a global project — the Future Supplier Initiative, facilitated by The Fashion Pact in partnership with Apparel Impact Institute, Guidehouse, and DBS Bank — aimed at financing decarbonization of the sector. The initiative seeks to “accelerate the transition to net zero by sharing the financial risks and responsibilities of transitioning to renewable energy sources in Tier 1 and 2 garment and textile factories”. You can check out additional coverage here and here.
Announcement: 39th IAF World Fashion Convention Samarkand, Uzbekistan
Fashion United | June 17, 2024
For the first time in their histories, the International Apparel Federation (IAF) and the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) are combining forces, creating a unique, full industry gathering around the theme “Innovation, Cooperation & Regulation — Drivers of the Textile & Apparel Industry.” The 39th annual World Fashion Convention will take place in Samarkand, Uzbekistan, September 7-10, 2024. (Did you miss the 38th edition co-hosted by SPESA? Click here for a recap.)
Messe Frankfurt Highlights SDGs in Textile Industry
Sourcing Journal | June 17, 2024
Messe Frankfurt’s Olaf Schmidt recently spoke at the United Nations Fashion and Lifestyle Network Annual Meeting. He used the platform as an opportunity to highlight the value of Messe Frankfurt’s Heimtextil trade show. Since 2019, Heimtextil has been a partner of the UN Fashion and Lifestyle Network and the UN Office for Partnerships to highlight the Sustainable Development Goals at Messe Frankfurt‘s global textile events.
“One of Heimtextil’s unique strengths is its ability to view global developments from different perspectives and simplify complexity,” Schmidt said. “We excel at providing our visitors and exhibitors with this comprehensive outlook.”
Fashion Workers Act Passes Legislature, Heads to Governor's Desk
WXXI News (Rochester NPR Affiliate) | June 17, 2024
New York may soon enact additional labor protections for models working in the fashion industry by regulating management agencies in the state, thanks to legislation sponsored by Democrat Karines Reyes of the 87th District of New York. “This bill represents our values as a state that values workers, a state that uplifts labor unions and the right for workers to organize and fight for their protections,” Reyes said. “This is another piece of that puzzle, and I think a huge win for New York.” State Senator Brad Hoylman-Sigal said if the bill is signed by Democratic Governor Kathy Hochul, legal loopholes where agencies have escaped accountability would be closed.
Note: The controversial Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act (Fashion Act) that we mentioned in the last issue of Behind the Seams did not make it to the New York Assembly floor before its June deadline. But we expect to see it (or some version of it) back up for consideration next session.
TikTok Ads May Soon Contain AI-Generated Avatars of Your Favorite Creators
The Verge | June 17, 2024
Back in May, TikTok announced the launch of TikTok Symphony, a creative suite designed to help brands put together AI-generated ads. Now, the social media giant is expanding these tools, announcing generative AI avatars for brands and creators. It's an interesting move, allowing Symphony users to use digital avatars for creative and branded content. TikTok is offering both "stock avatars," which are pre-built with paid actors and licensed for commercial use, and "custom avatars," which are crafted to represent a creator's likeness or a brand's spokesperson or figurehead.
'We're in a New Era' of Supply Chain Disruption, HSBC Analyst Says
Yahoo! Finance | June 16, 2024
According to a new report from HSBC, there are several factors putting pressure on global supply chains this year. Products and global supply chains are more complex than ever before, and suppliers have to secure financing in an inflationary environment. Click the link below to hear key insights from HSBC Americas head of global trade solutions Marissa Adams in an interview with Yahoo! Finance. Check out additional coverage here.
Australia Overtakes U.S. as Top Textile Consumer: Research
Fibre2Fashion | June 15, 2024
According to new research from the Australia Institute, Australia has overtaken the U.S. as the world’s largest consumer of textiles per capita, with much of this consumption attributed to fast fashion that ends up in landfills. Key findings from the research indicate that Australians buy an average of 56 new clothing items per year, surpassing the U.S. at 53 items, the UK at 33 items, and China at 30 items.
KARL MAYER North America To Host Second Textile Innovation Conference
eTextileCommunications | June 14, 2024
SPESA President Michael McDonald will be speaking at KARL MAYER North America’s upcoming Textile Innovation Conference. The event will take place June 25-27, 2024, at KARL MAYER North America’s headquarters in Greensboro, North Carolina, and is primarily aimed at brands, designers, and manufacturers within the textile industry.
China Reclaims U.S. Apparel Market Share Amid Global Price Wars
Just Style | June 12, 2024
Comparing the first four months of 2023 to the same period of 2024, U.S. apparel imports from China jumped by nearly 4%, compared to a decline of 19% in 2023 from 2022, according to data released by the Office of Textiles and Apparel.
But China is not alone. Total U.S. apparel imports rose by 1%. Curiously, though, when excluding China from the world total, imports from the rest of the world declined slightly this year (-0.1%). Even so, China has competition. The ASEAN bloc (+6%), Vietnam (+9%), Cambodia (+20%), and India (+5%) have enjoyed significant gains so far in 2024.
Azura Launches AI Platform To Drive Circular Fashion
Just Style | June 12, 2024
Australian-based fashion technology startup Azura Fashion Group has unveiled an AI-powered platform with a “zero-inventory” approach for the resale of off-season, end-of-line, and pre-loved fashion items across 55 global marketplaces. "Our AI model not only addresses the inefficiencies in the supply chain but also empowers brands to embrace circularity, reducing waste and promoting responsible fashion consumption," said Samuel Wood, CEO of Azura Fashion Group.
Explainer: Why U.S. Should Renew AGOA for Over Decade Before 2025 Expiry
Just Style | June 12, 2024
Following a U.S. hearing on renewing and revitalizing trade preference programs such as the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA), Just Style finds out why the apparel industry is eager for it to be renewed before its 2025 expiration date. This article features SPESA’s immediate past chairman Ed Gribbin.
SPESA MEMBER SPOTLIGHT | FKgroup Strengthens Presence in Bangladesh
Apparel Resources | June 11, 2024
FKgroup’s International Commercial Officer, David Noli, recently sat down with Apparel Resources to talk about current market dynamics, Bangladesh’s potential in tech adoption, and local tech support to factories. Click below to see excerpts from the interview.
SPESA MEMBER SPOTLIGHT | Shimmy Technologies Trains 10,000th Worker, Helping Transform Industrial Education
Press Release | June 11, 2024
"This milestone underscores our team's unwavering dedication and commitment to delivering top-notch training while efficiently scaling our operations," remarked Sarah Krasley, CEO at Shimmy Technologies. "Our recent investments in the Shimmy platform empower us to reach more workers without compromising the quality of our training."
Global Trade Is on the Rebound. Are Suppliers Getting the Benefit?
Supply Chain Brain | June 10, 2024
While global trade overall appears to be “inching closer to a recovery,” the U.S. and China saw “robust” growth in the first quarter. According to China’s official Manufacturing Purchasing Managers’ Index, the nation’s manufacturing sector ceased to contract for the first time in six months. The U.S., meanwhile, kept on gaining momentum in the first quarter, with total trade registering one point above the baseline.
That’s good news for traders in general, but suppliers aren’t in the clear yet. Along with signs of sustained recovery in global trade comes continuing liquidity challenges. Simply put, many buyers are still slow-paying their suppliers. Click the link below for an analysis of how suppliers are still feeling the effects of uncertain demand following the Covid-19 pandemic and disruptions to supply chains.
HanesBrands Sells Champion to Authentic Brands Group
Retail Dive | June 10, 2024
HanesBrands expects to earn about $900 million in net proceeds from the Champion transaction, and it said it would use this money to pay down debt. Authentic, a company known to buy struggling brands, owns a portfolio of more than 50 lifestyle, entertainment, and media brands. Earlier this year, it bought Sperry from Wolverine World Wide Inc. for $70 million. Its other recent fashion acquisitions include the Boardriders portfolio and the intellectual property of Hunter Boots and Vince.
Baltimore Shipping Channel Fully Reopens After Massive Cleanup
The Washington Post | June 10, 2024
Disruptions from the Francis Scott Key Bridge collapse in March have cost the Baltimore region’s economy about $1.2 billion, said Anirban Basu, an economist with Sage Policy Group, a Baltimore-based consulting firm. That takes into account a sharp drop in port activity immediately after the disaster and more moderate losses as smaller channels kept a reduced quantity of goods flowing — as well as all the spending on clearing the channel itself. Check out additional coverage on the port’s reopening here.
LS&CO. Used AI-Powered Open Marketplace to Source Fabrics
Rivet | June 7, 2024
Levi Strauss & Co. (LS&Co.) is working with o9 Solutions, an AI-powered supply chain planning and analytics solutions provider, to create an enterprise planning system that allows LS&Co. to assign orders quickly, significantly reducing lead times. Described as an open marketplace, the system shows a live look at LS&Co.’s supply chain so that it can quickly see which suppliers have the materials on hand that it needs to manufacture tops and bottoms. It allows all parties to communicate virtually in real time on up-to-date raw material needs.
LS&Co. said this level of supply chain transparency optimizes its entire network, improving processes in ways that deliver significant cost and time benefits as well as the ability to protect margins.
SPESA MEMBER SPOTLIGHT | Winners of First Interzum Forum Italy Awards Announced
Furniture & Joinery Production | June 6, 2024
Interzum Forum Italy, the new biennial event held earlier this month, announced the winners of the first edition of the Interzum Forum Italy Award 2024. SPESA member Morgan Tecnica was named the winner in the Textile & Machinery Innovation category for its new Rex cutting machine.
The Fashion Industry’s ‘Urgent Need’ for Sustainable Practices
ESG Dive | June 6, 2024
Sustainable fashion practices — and how to incorporate them into companies’ product design, supply chains, and corporate decision-making — was the overarching theme at the United Nations Fashion and Lifestyle Network annual meeting earlier this month. The third iteration of the event gathered sustainability leaders, academic experts, industry stakeholders and UN representatives and advisory committee members from across the globe with the aim of accelerating implementation of the UN’s sustainable development goals.
SPESA MEMBER SPOTLIGHT | HSM Rebrands Atlanta Attachment Company, Announces N.C. Expansion
Furniture Today | June 6, 2024
HSM Solutions is rebranding its Atlanta Attachment Company (AAC) business unit to Atlantic Automation Company and says it plans to expand operations to North Carolina. “We are thrilled to embark on this exciting journey of transformation,” said Trevor Fawbush, AAC general manager. “This strategic move underscores our commitment to pushing innovation boundaries, delivering unparalleled value and solidifying our leadership in manufacturing.”
Rite of Passage, a Sustainable Clothing Brand from Asheville, Is Redefining Slow Fashion
Garden & Gun | June 6, 2024
Nothing makes us happier than seeing the industry in our own backyard. Earlier this month, Garden & Gun profiled sustainable clothing brand, Rite of Passage, and its work in repurposing materials to build luxury garments. What stood out to us was the brand’s drive to lift up the next generation — a key theme at SPESA’s upcoming Executive Conference in Montréal. Rite of Passage, along with other small businesses, as a part of a coalition called Carolina Textile District, have partnered with community colleges and development centers to create an Industrial Sewing Training Program, in which students learn techniques and foundational knowledge to prepare for full-time positions in the industry.
SPESA To Host 2024 Executive Conference in Montréal, Quebec, October 8-10, 2024
Press Release | June 12, 2024
Hear from SPESA’s leadership team on what you can expect at the upcoming 2024 SPESA Executive Conference and why we chose Montréal as our next host city! Early bird registration is open now and will be available until July 12th.
ICYMI | Throughout Textiles Industry, Influence of NC State Alumni Is Profound
Wilson College News | May 21, 2024
“Venture into nearly any arm of the textiles industry, and you’re sure to notice a trend: NC State University and Wilson College of Textiles alumni are everywhere.” This article features several alumni — including our very own Michael McDonald — who now lead trade associations in the textile, apparel, and sewn products industries.
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